The different grades of flue liners available in our flue supplies store that are recommended for different applications. There are three different grades of stainless steel liners available for purchase ; 316/316 grade – 904/316 grade – 904/904 grade. The dual grading refers to the fact that liners are made up of two layers of corrugated stainless steel. Both grades are suitable for the same recommended fuels – smokeless fuels, coke, coal, cured dry wood logs, cured dry peat, oil and gas. However if you intend to predominantly burn smokeless fuels, coke and coal, which burn at a hotter temperature, we recommend using the higher grade 904/904 liner as it is more resistant to corrosion. 904/904 grades we believe to be superior to 904/316 stainless steel liner and so we do not stock 904/316 grade. 904/316 is not as resistant to corrosion on the outside of the flexible flue liner as the inside.
Generally 316/316 grade liner comes with a shorter warranty period – ours has a 10 year warranty and our 904/904 grade has a 20 year warranty.
In this article we highlight some top tips if you have bought a flexible, stainless steel liner and intend to install it yourself.
– The installation of a liner is a two person job – one person on the roof and the second person at the bottom of the chimney.
– Use either roof ladders or scaffolding to access the chimney and always wear a safety harness.
– Wear appropriate clothing and PPE – we advise wearing goggles, dust masks and stove gloves, cut resistant if possible, as liners are sharp at the ends.
– Ensure you have purchased the correct type of liner, diameter and length for your chimney and connecting appliance, whilst complying with building regulations. For example, flue liners should generally be a minimum of 6″ in diameter – however, 5″ is acceptable if the connecting appliance is DEFRA approved for use in smoke control areas.
– Put down dust sheets in the room where the connecting appliance will be located and move back furniture where possible. This means you will have space to work, and any remaining soot dislodged by the liner coming down the chimney will land on the dust sheet not on your carpet!
– If you are installing a liner and stove yourself and you are not HETAS registered, you will need to get your Local Authority Building Control Department (LABC) to sign off the work to say that the installation complies with building regulations.
– If you are HETAS registered, or using a third party who is, make sure you fill in/receive a HETAS Certificate of Compliance for the installation. A copy of this should then be sent to HETAS who notify your LABC of the work carried out on your behalf.
– If you later decide to sell the property, the solicitor acting on behalf of the buyer will ask for a copy of your HETAS certificate/building notice. It may also be required to be presented to your insurance company.
If you have any questions about this article or about flue systems in general, please contact us on 01285 642331 or via firstname.lastname@example.org.
Remember: the installation of a liner is a two person job – one person on the roof and the second person at the bottom of the chimney.
1. Fix a rope around the leading end of the liner and attach a weight to the other end of the rope. This will help guide the liner down the chimney.
2. Alternatively, you can fit a nose cone to the leading end of the liner, which has a pre-drilled hole in the centre to fit a draw cord through. Therefore as well as serving to guide the flue liner, the nose cone will also stop the end of the liner snagging or catching on the sides of the chimney breast.
3. The person on the roof should start feeding the liner coil as centrally as possible down the chimney while the person at the bottom of the chimney pulls the rope.
4. Many chimneys have a natural kink, so if this is the case carefully rotate the liner to manoeuvre it around the kink.
5. Once the leading end of the liner reaches the fireplace opening, remove the rope or nose cone.
6. Attach an adaptor to the end of the liner and fix with self tapping screws. The adaptor will later connect to flue pipe (single wall enamel) ; if the flue pipe is the same diameter as the liner use a MA adaptor. If the diameters are different size you will need a MR adaptor.
7. At the top of the chimney, secure and stabilize the flexible liner using a top plate and clamp.
8. Place a new chimney pot on top of the chimney stack and secure in place by applying cement mortar around the base of the chimney pot. This will also prevent water leakage.
9. Fit a suitable chimney cowls to the chimney pot, which will minimise rain ingress and prevent bird entry.
10. If you have an existing chimney pot, which is in good condition, you can instead use a pot hanger cowl and so take away the need for removing the chimney pot when fitting the liner.
They should be swept at least once a year using non-metallic chimney sweep brushes which can be found in Cleaning – Maintenance category. It is important to have your flue swept to remove any buildup of soot and creosote within the liner. This will occur naturally on a low level, but will be accelerated by burning non-recommended fuels or wet wood, causing blockages in the flue and possibly a chimney fire if not regularly swept.
Lakeside Business Park
Mon-Fri - 9am - 5pm
Saturday - 9am - 4pm
Sunday - Closed
Phone - 01285 861099
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